For Celine, Hedi Slimane completes her Mediterranean epic, which begins in Monaco and continues in Nice, with a summer stopover in Saint-Tropez.
By Edson Panniers
©Dr
Published in
en June, Celine caused hysteria with the first physical parade since the start of the pandemic in front of K-Pop stars V, Lisa, and Park Bo Gum, marking a sensational return to the showman Hedi Slimane at Paris Men’s Fashion Week. On the other hand, for his women’s collections, the designer prefers to delay, delay dead sinuses its presence on the official calendar, although the big names in luxury mostly return there. For the spring-summer 2023 season, Celine chose to present a virtual collection, via videos published on her website and social networks. An opportunity for Hedi Slimane to sing her summer chorus that takes us every year to the sunny shores of the Mediterranean.
Launching in October 2020, the project, which the house describes as the “Cycle of the French Riviera”, leads female Celine to tread the athletics track of the Louis-II Stadium in Monaco in logo bras or parade in evening gowns on the English Promenade. For this new piece, which completes this Riviera triptych, the home stops in Saint-Tropez Bay, where the designer resided in 2018 while returning from California. Dressed in her directorial attire, Hedi Slimane launches a passionate declaration of love for Saint-Tropez, the backdrop for this latest show, interspersed with black and white sequences of American Lulu Tenney, the designer’s favorite model and icon from the new collection.
Nostalgia 2000
The wardrobe, unveiled on the Quai de la Pesquière, has familiar accents. The effortless neoclassical spirit that characterizes the Celine collection is indeed present, combined with the indie rock DNA that made Hedi Slimane triumph in the first half of the 2000s, to the soundtrack from the “Music when the lights go out” collection that was taken. from the eponymous album by libertines, his accomplices for life. This is a return to skinny lines, narrow-bodied men’s blazers, bandeau miniskirts, skinny jeans, fitted biker jackets, little black leather dresses, and sequined jackets.
By calling on her own past triumphs to sketch future Celine women, the designer demonstrated, as always, a keen sense of business. Evidence of this is in the profusion of accessories that define the collection, as do so many gateways to the brand’s world: navy officer’s cap, black festival goer boots, triangular swimsuit and sunglasses ornately emblazoned with the double C emblem. The other essential piece of the delivery, the saddle-lined Conti bag, worn as an underarm shopping bag, is available in a choice of black or amber plant and alligator leather. A collection at the crossroads of eras, imbued with energy and attitude.
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