BOf course, there was the media impact of Dior’s show before this fall, on March 30, 2023, in front of the Gateway of India, in Mumbai, the first. Of course, the show speaks to the strength and ambition of the house. Of course, there’s the brilliance of this Indian nocturne, where Bollywood meets Avenue Montaigne. But, beyond hearsay as we’re telling you today, after flashes and posts, remains the crux of the matter: the collection arriving at the end of May in stores – don’t be impressed by the notion of “before fall” marketing, literally “before fall” “.

Even more so than others presented on the other side of the world – the prerogative of the big names in luxury – this collection subtly plays on the cultural references of the host country, in this case India. No sari or jodhpur look the same: the goal of Maria Grazia Chiuri, artistic director of Dior’s feminine universe, is more subtle. More intimate too as these 99 models are an opportunity for the designer to celebrate more than twenty-five years of collaboration with Chanakya embroidery and weaving workshop and their artistic director, Karishma Swali. This involvement was reinforced at Dior. This applies to couture, from the ornamentation of clothing to the decoration of fashion shows – entrusted to artists such as Eva Jospin or Madhvi and Manu Parekh –, embroidered in the heart of Mumbai.

Storage. This also applies to ready-to-wear offers, which are based on the technique but also on their memory. So, from a piece of Chanakya’s archives could emerge a little black jacket with gold embroidered piping and backing. We remain far from historical or folklore tropism, or even from the temptation of cultural appropriation. Indeed, short jackets, over wide trousers, elongated silhouettes that challenge flats and even sandals: Maria Grazia Chiuri has a sense of the era and the product. Without leaving martingale its own hyper-femininity: there are dresses embroidered with sequins, here others play with appliqué techniques for precious patchwork, there again are exclusive madras competing with the silken brilliance of color. This sophistication is matched by the simplicity and clarity of an oversized shirt or a neat pinafore dress. Maria Grazia Chiuri thus pursued her plan for a strong appeal, recognized among all, for liberated women, quickly: the feminist approach she had embarked on early at Dior was nourished by the influence of this knowledge, traditionally transmitted from father to son. male but his skills want him to feminize through a support program at Chanakya school which provides open training for women. Modernity plays a role here, in clothing that, beyond style, has meaning. That’s true luxury§

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