Costume designer ‘RRR’ stayed true to the 1920s fashion for the film’s epic dance

The dance is a compelling ancient battle storyline – and no more so than in the exhilarating “Naatu Naatu” (“Spice”) extravaganza in the Indian Telugu-language blockbuster RRR. In director SS Rajamouli’s 1920s action drama epic, this musical number pits the main duo, Alluri Sitarama Raju (Ram Charan) and Komaram Bheem (NT Rama Rao Jr.) – based on real-life anti-colonial revolutionaries – against an army of British colonial soldiers arrogant.

The fight begins after the pair – still not knowing each other’s true identities and intentions – embark on another classic film theme: pure bromance, with Raju helping his new best friend impress a love interest, Governor’s niece Jenny (Olivia Morris). After Bheem, still dressed as a Muslim woman shalwar kameez disguised, accepting his invitation to dance in the afternoon at the Gymkhana Club, Raju graciously offers one of his costumes. After all, as a member of the Imperial Indian Police, even undercover, Raju was used to the British dress code.

Olivia Morris (center) joined Charan and Rao in a dance sequence in a lace-and-satin crepe dress inspired by kanambaram, or “firecracker flower”.

COURTESY OF VARIANCE FILM

Dressed in double-breasted, tailored-cut jackets and high-waisted pleated pants, the strangers walked slowly toward the party. “You look stunning in your costume,” Jenny says, flattering Bheem, as she ignores the self-proclaimed “best dancer” Jake (Eduard Buhac). Bheem, in trendy ’20s plaid, remains a neat focal point, while Raju plays the winger in coffee chic.

With their superhero physique, the pair’s bespoke suits were both cutting-edge and revolutionary (pun intended) compared to the more traditional British men’s three-piece suit and tail tuxedo. But costume designer Rama Rajamouli has shown he has kept the authenticity of the era alive, which he says is the biggest challenge – especially after his last two collaborations with the director (also his wife) in the fantasy genre.

Pulling off the crucial dance sequence was no small feat, requiring a crew of 12 to arrive four days before filming roughly 16 days in Kyiv. Rajamouli estimates they made “between 120 and 140” prom dresses in India, while buying and customizing about 100 in Kyiv as backdrop. The women’s pastel palette, in a limited color range, reflected the fashions of British women in India at the time.

COURTESY OF VARIANCE FILM

For each hero, Rajamouli has six specially designed costumes of wrinkle resistant and breathable terry cotton. Choreographer Prem Rakshith even built the dance around Rajamouli’s costume. The “just standing and talking” scene needed a special set, “to look good,” said the costume designer. The wider costume then allows for high-octane dance carnage, which filters down to Raju versus Bheem, the former faking leg cramps to, once again, help his crazed friend win Jenny’s heart – and the contest.

This story first appeared in the December standalone issue of The Hollywood Reporter magazine. To receive the magazine, click here to subscribe.

Serena Hoyles

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