Published in26/11/2022on10:00 AM.
Tanguy Cleirec, winner of the Federation’s Young Traveler Grant, continues on his journey. He made a point in India.
Before starting my story, I want to send a big thank you for all the messages I’ve received this week, I took the time to read it, enjoy it and put it in the vein in my thigh, a holy booster shot!
Let’s start with the first “crazy” 950 km in the Indian mega pampas where I participated in the village fair. A mix of Finistère fest-noz and Grenoble Porte de France, less beer and more rickety attractions. I must admit I didn’t get far as I boarded the local “pirate ship”, propelled by the good old thermal engine emitting black smoke.
All I’m thinking about is the collapse of a bridge in western India the week before which had just reopened after six months of renovations… 160 dead… What are the odds of surviving the Indian showman attraction? Asking yourself these questions with every oscillation of attraction spiced up the experience a bit and even if in the end “I’m not dead” I had my dose of emotions for the night!
Through the flat Indian countryside
Followed several long days trying to traverse the flat Indian countryside at 100km/day until, tired of the monotonous roads and feeling the ocean’s call, I decided to opt for a smooth bike-ride mix that only weary cyclists have the recipe for.
And here I was faced with the second “insanity” of the week when the driver of the van that picked me up made it clear to me that he wanted to leave me behind the wheel. Intrigued by this new experience and happy to drive, I decided to take on this challenge!
Dear reader, I’m counting on you not to repeat that to my parents, but here I am driving a van at 80 km/h (that’s the average speed here) on an Indian highway! Funny experience driving with the steering wheel on the right on the left side of the road, turn signal on the right and wiper on the left, it takes a bit of concentration but again “I’m not dead! » This is India!
Take a warm bath break
So here I quickly arrived in the city of Davildara where I was hosted by Barbora and Hitesh, a couple take a warm shower which led me to discover the third “craze” of the week, culinary this time, Indian “paan”. “Paan” is a dozen spices, different products rolled in betel leaves (a climbing plant with medicinal properties) that you chew like gum after eating.
Very refreshing, good for breathing and digestion. Sold in tobacco shops (you can pop it in to chew but I’ll break my second collarbone trying..) it’s almost as fun watching the “tobacco man” make “paan” as trying to identify the flavors of the individual ingredients used (areca nut, orange lime, cloves, cardamom, coconut, candied fruit, rose syrup, etc.). In short, I have become a fan and consumed it as soon as I discovered it!
Many thanks to Barbora and Hitesh for the discoveries, for your welcome, suggestions on the itinerary as well as the ivory elephants, another beautiful encounter that will mark the trip!
Second day of cycling later (at a ratio of 10-260 more rides than cycling) here I am in the town of Silvassa where the fourth “insanity” of the week awaits me when I discover that Shan, a friend from another warm bath, booked me a room in A “resort hotel” whose convenience is only matched by the friendliness of the group that welcomed me to Silvassa. I visited Shan’s company, an industrial big bag export company and walked in with a local elected official who would also invite me to spend the night at his home.
My first sunset over the Indian Ocean
We end the week with the fifth and final “madness” of the week, a sobering experience this time after a week also filled with questions about the rest of the journey and conclusions which I will share with you next week. (What a cliffhanger), I named my first sunset over the Indian Ocean! The first ocean on the way and the first stretch of saltwater from Batumi in Georgia. What a joy to see the sea again after two and a half months!
The ocean is like birth according to my grandmother: “That makes everyone agree! » The Indian Ocean was a new marker for me on a journey, a new “first time” in my life, a new discovery, a feeling of growing up and an added example of what this journey brought me.
I’ll stop there for today I’ve started preparing a paragraph on how I feel about women’s place in India, but I still need materials (and sleep) so I’m saving that for next week. The only thing I can say about it is: overall it’s not as bad as in Central Asia!
Tanguy
To find out more about Tanguy’s adventures, visit https://cyclotourism-mag.com/2022/06/11/rencontre-avec-tanguy-cleirec-laureat-de-la-bourse-jeune-voyageur/
Text and photo: Tanguy Cleirec
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