Calais. Orientalist Haute Couture…

The Lecoanet Hemant label was founded in Paris in 1981. This fashion house, one of the most inventive of its time, designs festive and luxurious fashions. Between 1984 and 2000, he produced thirty-three collections utilizing the haute couture label, aimed at a cosmopolitan international clientele. The Attribution Dé d’Or came to pay homage to the home’s bravery in 1994.

In 2000, Didier Lecoanet and Hemant Sagar left Paris for New Delhi, leaving behind haute couture tailor-made for the serial production of ready-to-wear, a process that was then unknown in India in which the styles and cutting techniques applied remained firmly entrenched in tradition. For twenty years, they have been creating fashion creations for men and women in which they combine Indian lore, inventiveness, and the spirit of French couture.

The insatiable duo of world explorers brings back objects and fabrics from their many odysseys that inspire them to build shimmering and refined models, characteristic of their style, blend of textiles and culture.

Coming from the start, variations around Indian saris and drapes mark all the housework. The theme of nature also emerges from the first collection, through pieces made from plant, mineral or animal materials: raffia, wood, shells, rice paper.

This exhibition invites you to take a journey through the many shapes, patterns and textures in the colors of the East. An extravagant evening gown, plush coat or structured suit is immersed in the world of home aesthetics, thanks to scenography inspired by themes the creators love, combining sound, image, video and text.

The fashion developed by Lecoanet Hemant has taken a more ecological turn since its installation in India, particularly through their approach to promoting hemp, one of the oldest textile mills. As such, the exhibition presents a selection of objects created by experienced Indian designers from these natural fibers, from the nettle family, and locally produced.

Based on the knowledge of Ayurvedic ancestors, Lecoanet Hemant also launched “Ayurganic”, a clothing line based on this principle of traditional Indian medicine: handcrafted organic textiles providing medicinal plant benefits.

Serena Hoyles

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